22 April 2018

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The Hellbender Hundered was an inaugural event this year, but that did not keep me from registering for it and from making it my first goal race of 2018. I knew that the race was being put on by a bunch of passionate and committed trail and ultra runners, who had plenty of race experience among them and who knew what runners would be looking for. So even though I try to avoid first year events, especially 100 milers, to allow them to work out the kinks first, I wasn't concerned about this event being well organized. On top of it, I had had the opportunity to run some of these trail during last year's Quest For The Crest 50K and this year's Mount Mitchell Challenge 40M, so I knew it would be brutal and absolutely beautiful all at the same time.
Of course, the race description on the website only made it more enticing. "The Hellbender Hundred is the most challenging hundred miler on the East Coast. Brought to you by a conglomerate of experienced race directors, the course will take you through a grueling tour of the massive Black Mountains, the highest mountains east of the Mississippi, on some of the most challenging trails in all of Western North Carolina.  With an elevation change of 50,000+ ft along this extremely beautiful route, you will not want to miss this premiere graduate level hundred through the heart of the Southern Appalachia's." I was sold.
Once I had pulled the trigger on Ultrasignup.com, it was time to start race planning. Training plan, drop bag planning, gear selection, nutrition plan, etc. I enjoy the logistics of planning for a 100 miler as much as if not more than the actual training. By the time race day rolled around, I had put in 1,100 miles and 130,000ft of vertical gain in the 3 1/2 months leading up to the race. I had run 8 ultra races or solo runs from 50K to 76 miles in the process, focussing more on running than getting vert, which was a departure from my training for Fat Dog 120 last year and Cruel Jewel 100 the previous year, where I was focussing on getting as much vert as humanly possible. 
For the most part, my logistical planning was unchanged from previous races, except that I was planning to run without crew or pacer, which meant extreme focus on drop bags. I calculated three different race goals, an extremely lofty "A"goal of sub 24 hours, a realistic "B" goal of 26 hours and a don't quit just because you missed your A and B goals "C" goal of 28 hours. This allowed me to ensure that drop bags contained just the right amount of nutrition and clothing at the appropriate times during the race, allowing me to keep my running pack as light as possible. 
I created a laminated aid station/pace chart, so I would always know how the distance to the next aid station and/or drop bag. I created gear lists for each drop bag, allowing me to quickly see the contents once I arrived at an aid station with drop bags. This was important as I had no crew and late race ultra brain would potentially make it difficult to think clearly. My drop bags contained spare shoes, socks, shorts, shirts, rain jackets, warm layers, hats, buffs, gels and drink powder pouches.
By the time race week arrived, I was nervous but more than ready to get this show on the road. I made the 5 1/2 hour drive to Old Fort, NC early Thursday morning to get there in time for race packet pickup, to catch up with friends and to still check out one of the many vegan restaurant options in Asheville, NC for my pre-race dinner. I made it in plenty of time to pick up my bib. After hanging out for a while, I left to check in to my hotel and to grab dinner. I had booked a cheap hotel in Asheville just of the interstate and only 20 minutes from the race start. After dinner, I finalized my running kit for the next morning, filled up my water bottles and taped my heels. By 9PM, it was lights out with my alarm set to go off at 3AM for a 5AM race start. Unfortunately, I woke up again at midnight and spent the next 3 hours lying awake thinking about the race.
The alarm went off as planned and after I ate a banana and drank some more Nuun to prehydrate, I did a final check of my pack and gear before getting dressed. Unfortunately, the bottom of my pack was wet, which meant my bottle(s) were leaking. Great, just what I needed on race morning. I located the leaks and taped them with some KT tape as that was all I had available. Thankfully, this patch job lasted for the duration of the race.
I packed up my stuff and made my way to the race start arriving 30 minutes prior. It was a pretty chilly morning with temps in the 30s, so I stayed in the car until about 5 minutes to race start. I was wearing Altra Superior 3.5, which I had tested for all of 2 miles prior to the race. I also opted for short CEP Merino socks and Altra calf compression sleeves, some well worn in Nike shorts, a Kuhl short sleeve button up shirt, Altra arm sleeves, Patagonia windbreaker, wool mittens, Altra buff and Petzl headlamp. We wuld only need a headlamp for the first couple of hours, so I used the smaller of my two headlamps and place the more powerful one, LEDlenser MH10, in my 52 mile drop bag for the night portion of the race.
I walked up to the start line, excitement had been building and people were pumped to get going. Everyone wished each other luck and I lined up near the front with the goal of sitting just at the bottom of the top ten so as not to get sucked in to a rabbit start. I had the feeling that there would be a few runners starting the race rather quickly and I did not want to get caught up in that.
The race started right on time and we were off, hootin' and hollerin', so quickly in fact that we just about passed the pace car (aka Aaron's van) as we made our way down the gravel road out of Camp Grier. Aaron barely made it into the car to stay ahead of us. The first 5 miles would be on gravel and paved roads before we'd start the first of 7 major climbs, this one a 4,000ft climb up Heartbreak Ridge. I settled into a comfortable pace quickly, chatting with other runners as we made our way up the road.
By the time we hit single track to start the real ascent, I was running alone at my own pace, somewhere just below the top ten. The plan was to run from aid station to aid station and to run entirely by feel for at least the first half of the race. I had already detached the trekking poles from my pack as I planned to use them for every climb from the start. I was moving pretty well and feeling good, continually checking in with myself to make sure things didn't go south early on. As we got closer to the top, the sun started to rise above the Black Mountains.
I had blown through the first AS at 5 miles, but I did get some water at the mile 12 water stop at the Blue Ridge Parkway. I was carrying Honey Stinger energy gels as well as Sword drink powder as my main fuel source along with Base Salt to address my sodium needs. I was hoping to keep AS stops to a minimum and only spend extra time when accessing my drop bags as needed. Unfortunately, this plan only worked until mile 40.
The day continued to warm up slowly, but because we spent much of our time climbing to higher elevations, I didn't shed my arm sleeves and windbreaker well into the race. I shoved them into my pack since I knew I'd need the layers again later. My race continued to go according to plan, I didn't worry about my pace, ran entirely by feel and stopped for pictures whenever I had a scenic view...and there were a lot of scenic views.
The first 40 miles were fairly uneventful and I was feeling great. I had been running with the two top female runners for a while at a relaxed pace, but as we made our way up to Buncombe Horse Trail Junction & Mount Mitchell AS at mile 43, things started to go south very quickly and unexpectedly. I started to have chills even though it had gotten pretty warm as we were climbing. It wouldn't go away, so I started to pick up my pace to try to warm up, but that only made me nauseous. During the switchbacks that had tree cover and shade, I started to freeze, during the exposed sections, I was only slightly chilled. Temps were almost in the 80s.  
This made no sense. The air was extremely dry, so I didn't really feel like I was sweating a lot, either. I was trying to assess my issues. All I could do is slow down, try to stay as comfortable as possible and try to get to the next AS to assess things again. My stomach wasn't in the mood for gels, so I was relying on my Sword fluids only. In addition to these issues, I had suddenly started to chafe on my inner thighs. I hadn't chafed in years and the shorts I was wearing had been through multiple ultra races without causing problems for me. WTF! 
I finally made it to the AS at mile 43 in the lowest state of mind possible. I had been thinking about the possibility of a DNF for the last hour and only minute earlier won the mental battle within to determine that nothing was going to keep me from finishing this thing. I was here because I wanted to be here. I had trained hard to be here. I wasn't going to give up. I wasn't going to hit my A goal and probably not my B goal, either, but I was going to finish. When I arrived at Buncombe AS, the volunteers were fantastic! Their attitude was just what I needed at this point. I stopped for a few minutes to collect myself. I knew I had a little more climbing and 9 miles to go before I would have access to one of my drop bags at the Colberts Creek AS. I needed to get there as I had a pair of shorts and tape there that I hoped would help me address my chafing issues.
I filled up my bottles and went on my way. I knew the next 9 miles would have some climbing, but also a significant portion of downhill running and all I planned to do was stay in one piece, stay relaxed and not make anything any worse than it was. On a positive note, my feet were doing great. 43 miles in Altra Superior 3.5 shoes without issues. The shoe/tape combination seemed to work. I had put Altra Lone Peak 3.5 shoes in my drop bags, in case I needed more cushioning. To my surprise, I never did have to change shoes or socks. All I had to do is remove debris every so often.
When I finally arrived at Colberts Creek AS, I was ready for a break and a reset. Thankfully, Sean Blanton and crew were there to take care of runners. They really helped me out. Sean was getting me tortillas with avocado and sea salt and I could get enough of them. I was also able to change into different running shorts and use KT tape to cover the chafed spots on my inner thighs. Juts in case, Sean put some diaper rash cream in a ziplock in case things got worse later on. Thankfully, I did not have to use it as the tape and new shorts worked perfectly.
I still needed time to reset, so I continued to eat tortillas and drink ginger ale as other runners entered and left the AS. I slowly started feeling better. Some rest now would surely pay dividends later. When I left the AS, I was in a much better physical and mental state of mind, but I felt like something was missing...shit...I left my trekking poles and I was already 2 tenths of a mile out. No way was I going to continue without them, so I turned around and started yelling for assistance. Thankfully, another runner relayed my "message" and a kind volunteer carried my poles to me. Crisis averted.
I now had to cover close to 10 miles to make it back to Buncombe AS, giving me another opportunity to thank them for earlier. This section had the fifth major climb and it would be dark by the time I made it back to the aid station. I had been running solo for almost the entire race and I continued to do so. It's strange how much a field of runners stretches out over the course of any ultra marathon. You can go for hours without seeing another runners. The only runners I would see would be in aid stations or along some of the overlapping course sections.
When I arrived back at Buncombe AS, I was excited to see Doug Daniel who had shown up to volunteer the night shift. It's always energizing to see a familiar face during an ultra, especially one that challenges you in every aspect imaginable. I spent some time to fill up my bottles and to drink some fluids while chatting with Doug. It was getting cold, so I got moving again.

I knew I was through the toughest part of the race, both from a distance and from a climbing perspective. Obviously, there were still two major climbs left, but it all seemed more manageable now. I worked my way from AS to AS, but as it came closer to 20 hours of running, drowsiness became my biggest enemy. I had weened myself off caffeine for 10 days leading into the race in hopes of making the use of caffeine pills more effective during the late hours of the race. Unfortunately, that was not the case. I popped 6 caffeine pills to no effect. I still managed to fall asleep while walking uphill.

Thankfully, that was my only issue and I was able to run whenever the terrain was runnable, but it did slow me down. A pacer would definitely been helpful during this section, but you can't truly find out what you're capable of unless you rely completely on yourself. Do I enjoy running with the support of a crew and/or pacer? Sure, but i learn a heck of a lot more about myself, whenever I'm out there by myself making my way from start to finish.

As I made the final descent down Heartbreak Ridge and towards the finish line, I was excited and running at a good clip even though my feet were pretty sore at this point. I didn't know how far I had to go, but I knew there was small chance that I would make my "C" goal of sub 28. I kept pushing and pushing and when I finally saw the finish line arch, I was ecstatic. I crossed the finish line in 27 hours and 47 minutes and to a high five by Aaron and Clay, I think. It's all a bit of a blur, sleep deprivation does that to me, that and hallucinations, but I've learned to deal with them. Aaron handed me the sweet Hellbender 100 finisher buckle and I was happy to be done. The thought of a hot shower, food and sleep had kept me motivated during the last few hours and now I could indulge in it all.

The Hellbender 100 was an inaugural race that was extremely well executed by their crew of  race directors and my their tireless volunteers, who were all absolutely spectacular, I cannot praise them enough. They took great care of runners at each and every aid station and it made all the difference for me. 

08 April 2018

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Katadyn BeFree 0.6L Water Filtration System.
This review doesn't discuss specific data such as weight, flow-rate or length. I'll leave that to the manufacturer and other retail websites. This review only describes my own experience with the device as well as some things I learned before, during and after its use.
Easy to fill, easy to use, and collapsible.
Over the years, I have used quite a few different water filtration systems. I've also given up on some of the more complex filtration products after reading their rather extensive product documentation, never even using them once due to their complicated instructions for use.
The actual water filter sits inside the bottle top just under the mouthpiece.
When I'm in the backcountry, I don't want to have to remember 253 steps on "how to make your water safe for drinking". Usually, I don't need the filter for car camping trips. The times I had to rely on a backcountry water filtration system were usually during organized trail ultra marathons, where time was of the essence and during self-supported solo adventures, where there was no access to any outside assistance or any safe drinking water that was readily available.
The bottle cap meant to prevent spillage is attached by a small plastic hinge.
When you first start looking for a water treatment solution suitable for your needs (be it actual water filters or water purifiers), you will be surprised to find just how many different systems there are. There are pump water filters and purifiers, gravity filters and purifiers, Ultraviolet (UV) purifiers, bottle filters and purifiers, squeeze water filters, straw-style water filters, in-line water filters for hydration packs, chemical water treatment pills and good old fashioned boiling.

There are many factors that can and should help you narrow down the appropriate choices to meet your specific needs. How often are you planning to use your system? What do you plan to use it for? Car camping? Multi-day back country hiking trip? Single day ultra marathon? Or maybe you plan to use it for a variety of activities? What are other important factors for you? Ease of use? Water taste? Filtration speed? Filter cost? Once you answer these questions for yourself, you should have a great starting spot on finding the perfect solution.

As mentioned earlier, I've tried many different methods with varying degrees of success. That's not to say any of the tried methods didn't work, they did, but some worked better than others, faster than others and were less problem prone than others.

For a while now, I'd been on the hunt for a quicker, easier solution. I've tried pumps, in-line filters, straw-style filters and chemical solutions. While all of them worked, none of them felt like a natural solution for me with the exception of the in-line filter for hydration bladders. However, I prefer bottles, so that was not a long term solution either. The straw-style filter (with a squeeze pouch) seemed like a great option, but it still required you to stop, scoop up water and then filter it into another bottle for actual use. Not quite as intuitive as I had hoped.

Enter the Katadyn BeFree 0.6L Water Filtration System. One look at this solution and I was sold. I did some research online and bought it from one of the larger online retailers. In fact, I bought two. The BeFree looked like it was meant for ultra runners. It consisted of a collapsible soft flask very similar to the soft flasks currently being provided with the more popular running vests on the market, made by companies like Ultimate Direction and Salomon. The actual water filter sits inside the screw-on bottle top. Since my hydration running vest holds two bottles in the front, it just made sense to me to pick up two BeFree bottles.

This setup was to be my way to get drinkable water during my attempt to cover the entire length of the 76 mile Foothills Trail between Table Rock State Park and Oconee State Park in the Carolinas in a single day or 24 hours. I am happy to report that it worked and performed perfectly, but there are a few lessons learned. As with any product, there is always room for improvement.

When the BeFree bottles first arrived, they seemed to be identical to the bottles that came with my Ultimate Direction running vest. Unfortunately, when I tried to place them inside the front pockets, I realized very quickly that the BeFree flasks were larger (0.6 liters) that the standard soft flasks (0.4-0.5 liters). Initially, this seemed like a dealbreaker to me, until I realized a fairly simple workaround. These are soft flasks and not filling up the bottles all the way allowed for enough compression to place them inside the front pockets of my hydration vest. The perfect solution would be for Katadyn to produce a smaller bottle that fits the pockets of Ultimate Direction and similar hydration vests.

I also noticed that while it appears that Katadyn uses the same soft flask manufacturer (Hydrapak) as many of the other outdoor gear makers, the filter did not fit on these other bottles to due a different thread. I would much prefer an interchangeable bottle filter or filters, one to fit widemouth bottles and one to fit the narrow top bottles. Since the technology lies within the filter and not the bottle, it would just make sense.

One final item that could be improved upon is the actual water filter cap that prevents spillage. Currently, it is a small plastic cap identical to those of the single use "sports-style" water or sports drink bottles sold at your local convenience store. Their single largest "point of failure" is the tiny plastic hinge that keeps the cap attached to the filter. Should this little hinge break during use, one would no longer be able to prevent water from spilling out of the top of the bottle while hiking or running. Maybe a valve similar to other soft hydration flasks would be a better solution.

Now on to the things that make this system the perfect ultra running back-country companion. First and most importantly, there is the ease of use. Twist bottle top (filter) off the soft flask, scoop up water from your natural water source, twist filter back onto bottle, stash bottle back into vest, drink at your leisure. You're back to running within seconds.

Second, the flow speed is amazing. No sucking until your head turns purple. Instead, it's as easy to drink from this bottle as any other hydration flask. Or squeeze the bottle slightly as you drink to make it even easier. This is extremely important when you're exhausted already and/or are moving at speed. The last thing you want to do it catch your breath while trying to drink water, just because the flow rate is too low, preventing and keeping you from drinking water quickly.

That's it, this filtration system simply works simply:-) It is currently the best solution out there for anyone trying to move quickly through the backcountry. Obviously, that applies to every ultra or trail runner out there during a self-supported solo adventure or similar organized event requiring participants to filter their own water along the way. Once Katadyn sorts out the issues I mention above, it will also be more than worth the current retail price tag of $39.95. I still consider this filtration system a "strong buy" as is as there is nothing even close to it currently available on the market.

01 April 2018

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The harbor entrance on Lindau island in Germany, the unofficial finish line of my adventure run.
This run was entirely unplanned...until it wasn't. A short notice work trip to Switzerland had me struggling to figure out a way to get another 100 mile training week in prep for Hellbender 100 in April while basically sitting in a plane for two of those days and suffering through jet lag, which seems to get worse with every Euro trip I take these days.
One of the earlier trail sections, wide flat gravel trail.
Even if I was going to be extremely disciplined, it would be nearly impossible to find the time to get in 100 miles. Instead, I rearranged my training plan, but I still had to rack up 80 miles for the week. When Friday rolled around, I was at 40 miles, still needing another 40 over the next two days. To make matters worse, the weather had been pretty miserable all week and Saturday looked to be the worst, yet.
Small boat pier on the Strandweg along the Alter Rhein river.
I needed to do something pretty long on Saturday or Sunday. Since there was still a lot of snow at the higher elevations and more snow in the forecast, I had to stay at the lower elevations. St. Gallen is just 6 miles from Lake Constance and I figured there must be lots of hiking trails and bike paths around. A bit of online research revealed just that. In fact, there were two major trails or paths in my immediate vicinity. One 170 bike path looping entire Lake Constance and passing through 3 countries and the Camino de Santiago or Jakobsweg. It took just a few minutes to map out a nice point to point 50K route utilizing these trails along Lake Constance while passing through 3 countries in the process.
Strandweg along the Alter Rhein river.
The route would start at the front door of my hotel in St. Gallen Switzerland across St. Gallen cathedral and take me 10 kilometers downhill towards Rohrschach, a small town at the edge of Lake Constance before continuing on more or less along the lake towards the town of Bregenz in Austria for about 30 kilometers and finally on to Lindau island in Germany, my final destination for this point to point self-supported solo adventure run.
The Rhine river.
After following the weather reports, I decided late Friday evening to do a shorter run on Saturday in case the weather got as bad as predicted and try for the solo 50K on Sunday in hopes of slightly better conditions. That would mean, however, that I would be running on Easter Sunday, so I had no idea if any gas stations or shops would be open, when I was in need for food and water during my run. Oh well, that's all part of the adventure.
The only visible sign that you've entered another country (Austria), the small road sign on the right.
I left my hotel at 7:05AM on East Sunday morning. It was raining and a chilly 42 degrees. My level of motivation was pretty low, to be honest as the day looked dreary. The weather would not change for quite a while, but I decided to just take it mile by mile, breaking down my run into little manageable chunks. Thankfully, the first 6 miles were all downhill, so all I had to do is fall forward.
Wooden covered bridge across the Alter Rhein river separating Switzerland and Austria along a green (blue) border.
I kept a relaxed pace. I was wearing my UD running vest with only a single bottle filled with Nuun. My other bottle had sprung a leak just before I took off on my run. I also carried my phone, a GoPro, passport, cash, credit card and two CLIF bars. I hoped that I'd be able to get water and food at gas stations as needed.
Rhine river with alps in the background.
I didn't realize that I would barely eat or drink anything during my run. Temperatures were so cold and wet and I was moving conservatively enough that I didn't really feel hungry or thirsty. As a result, I did not drink my bottle of Nuun until mile 20, when I stopped at a gas station, where i picked up a bottle of water, a 16oz bottle of Coke and a bag of potato chips. I figured I could use a salty snack, even if I wasn't really hungry.
Wooden pedestrian bridge crossing the Dornbirner Ache creek.
I ended up chugging my bottle of Nuun, refilling my soft bottle and dropping another Nuun electrolyte tab into the water. I also drank half a bottle of Coke and ate half the bag of chips. I almost had to force myself to do so as I was neither particularly hungry nor thirsty. After a8-10 minute stop, I shoved the left over chips in my pack and continued on.
Boat harbor inside a small Lake Constance bay.
The weather would continue to change throughout the morning. While it stayed mostly overcast, the rain would stop occasionally, allowing me to still get some decent pictures of my surroundings. It took 15 miles for me to finally start to really enjoy the run. I had settled into a nice pace and I was stopping whenever something caught my eye. A beautiful rocky beach, the Alps, interesting architectural structures, lots of things worth a second glance and a picture.
Stony beach inside a small Lake Constance bay.
As the hours went by, the paths and trails got busier and busier, both with locals out for a Sunday walk and with tourists visiting the area over the 4 day Easter holiday weekend. While I am not particularly religious, it was kind of interesting to be running on the Camino de Santiago on Easter Sunday. I slowly made my way along the lake and through 3 countries. After just under 5 hours, I finally arrived at my final destination on Lindau island,  a small island in Lake Constance connected to mainland Germany via a short bridge.
Boat harbor at Lake Constance in Bregenz, Austria.
Lindau island consists of the Altstadt of Lindau along with a train station, which made it the perfect finish line for my adventure run as I could hop on a train back to St. Gallen once I was done. While my running gear worked perfectly all day, now that I was done running, I was struggling to stay warm while trying to do some sightseeing in town before taking the train back to my hotel. I pulled my waterproof jacket out of my pack and put it on, but I was still walking around in my shorts, earning me lots and lots of surprise looks from pedestrians who were wondering why anyone would wear shorts with temps in the low 40s. 
Make shift refuel stop.
After a few more photos, I went inside the heated train station to pick up a ticket and devour a large order of fries with ketchup and a half liter of German beer (my victory beer) from a small Kebab shop inside the train station before making my way to the appropriate track for my departure. 
Small beach inside small bay outside Bregenz, Austria.
Thankfully, my run was mostly uneventful in terms of any issues. I bought the wrong train ticket initially, which is a bit embarrassing considering I am German and this was a German train station. I didn't take any wrong turns, during my run, I was able to get some food and water at a gas station when I thought I needed it and my GPS watch battery didn't die until after my run, even though I forgot to charge it all week.
Paved trail between Bregenz, Austria and Lindau, Germany.
Once Iwas sitting on the train, I immediately started to look through all of the photos I'd taken, selecting the best ones for my running blog. I looked at the map of my run as well as my running data, always fun to check out after a run. Before I knew it, I was back at my hotel, taking a hot shower and looking forward to another amazing dinner at my favorite local Vegan buffet style restaurant.
View of Lake Constance from Austria with Switzerland on the left and Germany on the right.
One final suggestion to anyone that has read this far. If you have never done a solo run, do it. Map out a course of any length, anywhere, for any reason or no reason at all. You'd be surprised how much fun it can be, especially without the pressure that can come with the participation in an official race event. Go out there and create our own adventure. I promise, you won't regret it. In fact, you will look at your surroundings differently, always wondering how you could turn this or that into your next adventure run.
Boathouse structure inside Lake Constance.

Austria-Germany border, interestingly marked only by the Free State of Bavaria sign post.

Small creek separating Austria and Germany.

Another stony beach on Lake Constance. 
Sign post identifying the final 5k of my adventure run.



Reed along Lake Constance with the Alps in the background.

Lake Constance with the Alps in the backdrop.

Church on Lindau island.

Market place on Lindau island.

View from Bridge providing access to Lindau island.

Beautifully decorated building in the center of Lindau island.

The harbor entrace on Lindau island.

Unofficial finisher selfie at harbor entrance of Lindau island.

Course map.

Boat harbor on Lindau island.

Another view of the harbor on Lindau island.

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  • Cocodona 250M (Black Canyon City, AZ) - May 6-11, 2024
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