One of the many signature bluff lines along the Cumberland Trail
I closed out 2023 with one of my all time favorite ultras, the somewhat local Upchuck 50K in Soddy Daisy, Tennessee just a short 90 min drive from home. The Upchuck 50K is a technically challenging point to point trail race boasting 5500 feet of elevation gain on the Cumberland Trail. Runners are shuttled to the start line by school bus from the finish. This race has the same homecoming feel/trail family gettogether vibe as my local Mountain Mist 50K and as such, it is also the only race besides that race that I love doing again and again whenever I can. This would be my third running of the Upchuck.
Bridges are another frequent feature on the race course.
I headed down to Soddy Daisy Friday afternoon straight after work. I caught a ride with my buddy Jeff, who'd reserved a camping spot a short minute drive from the starting line at an RV park. As a result, I was able to get a bit more sleep on race morning before we headed to the race finish where we would leave our cars, pick up our race packets, and take the shuttle to the race start. By the way, this race always has some af the coolest race swag and this year's didn't disappoint, either.
While the race did not go as planned, it was as awesome as my previous two experiences. It was fun to catch up with a lot of my southeastern trail family, RayJay AKA RD Matt Sims was in his usual form entertaining runners and the Grim Sweeper even honored us with the National Anthem and a version of the dueling banjos on his banjo.
Regarding my actual race performance, my only goal was to make it to the finish line and enjoy the experience. However, I did not expect to be a full two hours slower than my previous two finishes. In the end, I did not care, but I was surprised to be that much slower and that I couldn't really go much faster. Everything felt much more difficult than before. Ultimately, I came to the conclusion that the year had taken a toll on my body, both from a fitness perspective as well as from a mental perspective, and that a proper break after this race would be needed before I kicked off a new year of adventures.
Almost the entire course runs along the Cumberland Trail
If you're an ultrarunner living in the southeast, you need to put this race on your bucket list. Be sure to note the registration date as this race sells out in mere minutes. Trust me, you will not regret it. As for me, I am going to lean back on my couch and continue to sign up for new adventures as I take time to reflect on and recover from the year that was. If 2023 is any indication, I still have lots of gas in the tank to take on some of the more challenging ultra adventures. I also have lots of room for improvement, still, in terms of performance and how far to push my body.
The Grim Sweeper sending runners off with a dueling banjos solo.
RayJay AKA Race Director Matt Sims welcoming runners at the start line.
This year has been largely defined by a global pandemic, i.e. COVID-19 also known as the Corona Virus. Since March 2020, I've witnessed more race cancellations than your average trail and ultra runner should witness during their entire lifetime. But all kidding aside, while some states are still avoiding ANY and ALL public gatherings, some states have slowly allowed outdoor events to take place again, under special restrictions of course, in an effort to prevent the further spread of the virus. Thankfully, the Upchuck 50K takes place in one of those states allowing these events as long as they fulfill certain heatlh and safety precautions.
Anxiously awaiting the race start after enjoying yet another most entertaining pre-race roll call from "RayJay".
Initially, I was going to drive my camper van to the location for the race finish on Friday evening and spend the night right there in the parking lot of a municipal sports park. However, those plans were squashed shortly after 11PM, when an indescript maroon SUV pulled up right behind me (the ONLY other vehicle in the entire parking lot) with his headlights shining straight at my van. After sitting there for about 10 minutes, clearly trying to decide whether my vehicle was occupied or not so they could proceeed to attempt to rummage through my van for valuables, I decided to let them know my vehicle was indeed occupied by shining my cell phone screen into their direction.
Can you spot the trail?
While that did the trick and they pulled out of the lot, it also ended my "desire" to boondock. Instead, I drove down the street to a nearby motel to finally get some sleep. While I'm sure car camping is neither encouraged nor allowed in that particular park, I had hoped that I would be ok to do so. Anyway, lesson learned:-)
Cool rock overhang. Am I the only one worried about these things collapsing on you when passing underneath?
I pulled into the parking lot once again on race morning to pick up my race bib and catch the shuttle to the race start of this low key point to point 50K on the Cumberland Trail. While there aren't any mountains in the area, this race still features more than 6000' of vertical gain. Add to that the limited number of aid stations (one at mile 7 and one at mile 18) and you have yourselves a true old school trail ultra.
Blue sky + Fall colors = Beautiful trail run
Matt Sims, the RD for the Upchuck 50K, limits race entries to 75 total, which not only adds to the low key feel of the event, but it's actually what attracts many of us to this event. I have only done this event twice now, but it already feels like a trail family reunion. There are always "new" runners from all over the Southeast there to participate, but you will also recognize many of the faces of local and regional runners, who return to this event year after year after year. Granted, the sweet Patagonia swag definitely doesn't discourage participation either. However, if you are looking for big fanfare or any handholding then this event is not for you. Pay close attention to the trail flagging or be ready to run some extra miles on limited fuel. This is not a deterrent for many of us but rather the attraction.
The water was flowing along the entire course.
Due to Covid, race packet pickup had been moved to race morning to minimize the number of gatherings. The race shuttle AKA school bus AKA "Covid Capsule" (RayJay quote) left promptly at 7:30AM for a 8AM race start at a trailhead 15 minutes north of Soddy-Daisy, our current and race finish location. This year, runners were shuttled in two busses rather than the usual single bus in order spread runners out more as another Covid precaution.
Upon our arrival at the trailhead, runners slowly assembled for the traditional pre-race roll call by "RayJay", but not until being called out and embarrassed for peepeeing in the woods. After another memorable roll call, runners were sent off onto the gnarly Cumberland Trail to complete this year's Upchuck 50K, a point to point trail race, where runners cross multiple streams and rockhop across leave covered single track trail wjhile climbing more than 6000 feet. But runners do get the luxury of two aid stations along the way, one at mile 7 and one at 18. This means you better pack enough calories and fluids in your pack to avoid bonking or getting dehydrated.
After both falling and having my shoes go untied (rookie mistake not to double knot the laces) less than a mile into the race, I caught up to Ryan Meulemans and a group of runners, whom I would stick with for the majority of the first 18 miles. Once we rolled into mile 18, 3 hours 8 minutes into the race, it seemed the group finally stretched and just like that, I was on my own. I moved pretty well up until this point. However, it seemed running 3 ultras in the previous 8 weeks may have started to show some residual fatique.
Bright fall colors.
I was able to run a good bit over the next five or six miles, but by the time I had a measily 10k to go I was done. I slowed to a shuffle and soon after I just walked. I started checking my watch every minute. It was a struggle. Calf cramps started to rear their ugly head. I popped SCaps like gummy bears and eventually gor them back under control. However, I had slowed so much that I had now run out of fluids as well. What had looked like a massive PR at mile 18 now looked like I may not even match last year's time. By the time I finally popped out onto the final road to the finishline with 1.5 miles to go, I tried to pick up my pace. In the end, it just wasn't enough. I missed last year's time by exactly one minute.
In the end, I got exactly what I came for. A good laugh at the pre race roll call, a fantastic time in the woods and more laughs at the finish line BBQ with my trail family. I can't wait for registration to open again to be out there to run hard and laugh even harder. Until then, check out my race video here to get a better feel for the race:
What a crazy weekend it was. I landed back home in Huntsville, AL Friday night just before midnight after a weeklong work trip to San Jose, then slept 3 hours before driving 2 hours to Chattanooga, TN to finally run the Upchuck 50K, a low key regional favorite that features a point to point course and the most entertaining pre-race runner check in you will ever get to experience. However, I only barely made it to the race start as my Jeep blew a plum of smoke and spewed oil/transmission fluid all over just 1.5 miles from the finish line, where a school bus would pick us up to take us to the race start. I coasted into the parking lot, said "screw it!" and hopped on the bus. My car troubles would have to wait until after. Turns out, they are still not resolved, which is why it took me a week to finally summarize my race.
The goal was simple, make it to the finish line at a faster pace than had be the norm for me all summer while running a bunch of 100 milers. LSD would have to give way to SFD. After an energized start to the race I quickly fell in with a few fellas I've share some miles/races with this summer. In fact, I think every single runner from the Southeast (ok, just from Tennessee and Alabama) that had toed the line in Squaw Valley this summer was also at Upchuck 50K. At least that's the impression I got during RayJays pre-race runner check-in. If you're getting lost in my insider references, I guess you'll just have to sign up for next year, but be quick, this one has a small field and sells out quick.
I ran with Matt Hawkins and we let Ryan Meulemans set the early pace. Matt decided very early on not to push too hard as this was his last long run before the fabled TNF 50 Miler in San Francisco the following week. Ryan had no such plans and also didn't show any signs of slowing down even after having just completed the Cannonball "Last Human Standing" event as the top dawg.
I managed to hang on to his small group of runners and while the pace didn't necessarily feel comfortable, it felt good enough to hold for a while. Whenever I run shorter races, I usually don't spend as much time taking photos and videos and today was no exception. In fact, the Cumberland Trail, on which much of this race is run, is a rather technical trail in some areas and that coupled with the faster pace required my undivided attention for the most part. In case my pictures don't show it, this race should be on the to do list for ALL local trail runners. It provide a variety of surface terrain and elevation changes and will keep you on your toes.
Due to the race's low key nature and a lack of easy vehicle access points to some of the trail sections, this race only features 2 aid stations. Cooler temps usually make this very manageable, but I still executed and planned poorly on that part causing me to run out of fluids with 8 miles to go. This ended up not being too much of a factor as my body really wasn't ready yet to race the full 50K at a faster clip, so by the time I ran out of fluids I was already in the process of slowing down some.
Even with my slow down and lots of walking on the remaining climbs, I only got passed twice during the entire duration of the race, which at least showed that I had settled into a pace and place equal to my current fitness. Ultimately, I would finish just outside the top ten in a time of 5 hours 39 minutes, which was only 9 minutes slower than the goal I had set for the day.
I had a great day on the trails and had the opportunity to catch up with lots of friends and trail family. The support shown to me especially after the race just to get my car taken care of and me taken back home shows why there is no kinder and more supportive community in sports than the trail running community. It was a fantastic day on the trails that was barely dampened by my car troubles. Thanks to everyone for your help, especially Nathan, Sam and David. Without you guys, I would still be sitting in a broken down Jeep in a parking lot in Soddy Daisy wondering what to do;-)
